• 460 local tastes

    From MICHAEL LOO@1:123/140 to ALL on Thursday, May 30, 2019 05:08:58
    The Dumpling Inn and Shanghai Saloon is one
    of the buzzing spots down on Convoy Street; it
    has a happy hour at the bar only, and that's
    where we go. It's an odd arrangement, with
    the two enterprises sharing a kitchen and a
    staff, but the menus are different, and you
    can get only some items from one menu in the
    other place. the oddest part is that there
    is not a clearly defined division; it all is
    in one large square room. One's head spins,
    and after being caught out once, we have
    decided to go to the bar part only, at happy
    hour time by preference.

    We got pork dumplings, which were pretty
    standard, a bit clunky, as if there had never
    been a Chinese grandmother in the kitchen
    (most of the staff looks white or Hispanic).
    The flavors were good except for a slight
    fizziness that I associate with not quite
    freshly minced pork. The ginger-scallion soy
    sauce tasted authentic enough. We got this
    for Lilli's sake, but he had only a couple,
    claiming nonhungriness, so I called for
    some hot sauce (it came as ladoban, so too
    salty for me) and Chris nd I ate the rest.

    Pork belly steamed bun sliders caught my eye:
    the meat was not as luxurious as I like,
    probably gringified; the braise was not quite
    long enough, so the meat was a little tough
    and a little stringy. Very sweet mantou.
    Scallions, okay, pickled Vietnamese style
    turnip and carrot julienne, okay, and cilantro,
    lots of it, less okay.

    Chris jumped up and down like a little girl
    when she saw pig ears on the menu. These were
    sliced, floured, and fried, pretty basic, but
    not crisp enough - accentuating the gelatinous
    nature of the dish, so she gave up after a while,
    leaving me to finish the rather large serving,
    which I did, all the time wishing that I was
    eating fried something else.

    On the wine list were various rather excellent
    deals, which were all sold out. The bartender
    claimed that they were changing the inventory.
    I noted that what was on offer was all the old
    wines that weren't a great deal, points against.
    We ended up with the mediocre Sterling Cabernet
    for too much money but not quite extortionate.
    It was young, grapy, a little too sweet, a
    little too obvious. The girls liked it.

    =
    Cotixan is a local chain of 24-hr Mexican fooderies
    - it's most notable for being the place Lilli took
    refuge after delivering me to the emergency room
    a year and half ago. It's halfway between a fast-
    food joint and a restaurant, clean but frillless.
    Doesn't bother me. There are good frying smells
    coming from the kitchen, which is right behind the
    cashier, so semi-open. As with many such places, you
    order, pay, and wait. They call you pretty soon.

    Lilli got the combinacion #1, a machaca taco and a
    cheese enchilada, rice, beans, and salad. She
    pronounced the taco excellent and gave me some of
    the shredded beef, which was plain but good. She
    hated but ate the enchilada, saying it was cold.
    She also finished off the pretty large serving of
    rice and beans, both of which were of a good
    standard, but the beans were made with oil instead
    of the proper lard. The whole plate was covered in
    lots and lots and lots of lettuce, of which she
    ate not much. I was very happy she ate as much
    food as she did.

    I got a fish taco for $4 something with rice and beans
    for an additional $2 something. A couple ounces of
    fresh, juicy fish fried in a delicate batter with the
    usual lettuce, tomato, and mayo-and-MSG-based sauce.
    It was some of the best fish I've had in years. When
    I go to a regular restaurant, I'm likely to get
    previously frozen fish of whatever quality. I was
    pleasantly surprised to say the least.

    No alcohol - there is a Coke machine out back.
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