• 9 Slightly north and back to earth

    From MICHAEL LOO@1:123/140 to ALL on Wednesday, September 25, 2019 10:59:48
    Swisher wanted to go to Segur, a tiny but picturesque town
    that last time we visited had been making sleepy efforts
    to take advantage of its status as one of the "300 plus
    beaux villages de France"; I said, why?, because as it had
    been nice enough, I couldn't see visiting a second time,
    plus I doubted that it would be better upon touristification.

    We got there around lunchtime. The brookside development that
    we'd seen starting last time had fizzled, but there was a
    public restroom, clean enough and quite welcome. A brasserie
    that Google said was open of course wasn't. The guy at the
    tourism office said that there was a place between there and
    Pompadour that he guaranteed would be open, so after poking
    around the town and finding another restaurant that was
    supposed to be open but wasn't, we took our leave and presently
    found ourselves at Auberge de la Mandrie, halfway to Pompadour.
    It's a semi-luxury hotel with a semi-luxury restaurant.

    My cough was piquing me, so I ordered what I thought was a
    pastis with two ice cubes, whereupon the waiter immediately
    switched to heavily broken English - turns out I'd asked for a
    pastis with two scoops of ice cream, What I got was in fact
    what I thought I'd ordered.

    There came an amuse of vichyssoise with a prune wrapped in
    smoked duck breast, commercual but very nice.

    Swisher and I got the plat du moment, a sous-vide pork shoulder
    in a standard but porky demiglace with boiled potatoes and
    boiled carrots. Quite tasty and pleasing, though the portion
    could have been just a bit bigger.

    To be contrary, Lilli got an omelette fines herbes, whose
    fresh chives, fresh parsley, and fresh tarragon I think
    were all totally tasteless. Luckily there was an additional
    unadvertised fine herb, which was ham. Along with this she
    got the same potatoes and a salad.

    Three chocolate mousses, quite good, possibly homemade,
    with an orange shortbread on the side, to finish.

    Another pastis for me to soothe my throat, and we were
    out of there.

    We stopped at Pompadour just to look at the imposing
    structures (too cheap to pay the large admission fee) and
    weht through Uzerche and back home, but the GPS told us
    one way and I wanted to go another, so Swisher chose the
    GPS, which crapped out in the middle of the maze that is
    Tulle. I had to take over and got us back to the proper
    route, which the stupid GPS had told us to deviate from
    twenty minutes earlier. We came back on the onramp next
    to the offramp that the GPS had taken us off. Bah, GPS.

    Our friend Jerry the ex-F-10x pilot is getting into the
    sous-vide kick and is being tutored by Ian, who prepared
    piri-piri chicken for this evening with caulirice on the
    side. Now the normal way to make piri-piri chicken is to
    marinate it a while in essentially Tabasco and then slam
    the meat onto a hot grill and in a couple minutes, there
    you have it. Ian's method involved making his own hot
    sauce, marinating overnight, then cooking for double-digit
    hours in the water bath, finally running the dish under the
    broiler for a minute or two. Ian's way is better, sorry
    Nando's. He used bone-in chicken breast, but the end
    texture was though not perfect as close as health wisdom
    would allow. Before making the sauce, he'd taken a vote,
    as the recipe said 2 to 6 chiles per batch. All the others
    voted for 6, but I demurred, saying 9 minimum and up to 15.
    6 won and was adequate but not generous. The dish was pretty
    tasty, though. Caulirice is a low-carb oddity - you cook
    your cauliflower and put it through the ricer, then you do
    a fried rice (carrots, onion, peas, ginger, eggs, and
    garlic) that has all right flavors though an odd texture.

    The wine was an about 10-year-old Montee de Tonnerre from
    Droin, a lesser-known maker in Chablis. Back in the olden
    days, when Joseph Drouhin's wines were becoming popular in
    the States, some noticed that certain wine lists had the
    Droin wines and figured that this was an off-brand playing
    on the more famous name. Not so - this is an equally
    respected house that seldom sells outside France. The wine
    was pleasantly acid and citrusy opening out with oak, grass,
    lime, and mango-papaya coming out as it warmed up. Pretty
    special, actually.

    Cheese board - pave de Correze, which is a Cantal analogue
    that happens to be made just outside the appellation; a
    tomme de brebis, an aged Cheddary substance but made out of
    sheep's milk; a bleu d'Albussac, mild, not too salty, local
    young moldy blue; and the same goaty mess that had gotten
    such bad notices the previous day but seemed to go better
    after this meal.

    We finished with Ian's version of Nigella Lawson's recipe
    for espresso ice cream, which I suspect was richer than the
    original. It was well-flavored and very unctuous and even
    served close to room temperature kept its shape.

    We were thrifty with the after-dinner drinks so as to
    encourage Jerry to drive home safely (a considerable distance).
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