Our first supper at the house consisted of poitrine farcie
and terrine de campagne, artisanal products from different
purveyors at the Brive market. The former was excellent, an
inch of fat, tender braised meat, and a mild sausage stuffing.
The terrine, from Ian's go-to pork butcher, was less successful,
as it was skimpily fatted although abundantly aspiced. A bit
light on flavor and second-rate in mouthfeel, both Ian and I
hypothesized that it was a byproduct of the current insane
emphasis on lean meats, the result being that traditional
sustainers such as this have been defatted and sissified so
as to hardly resemble the standard perfected versions.

Freyburger Grasberg Alsace Riesling 07 was still aromatic and
fresh but with a bit of an edge of rancio. It was less sweet
than I'd had hoped but nonetheless kind of marmaladey with
hints of dried citrus peels. A puzzlement, as one might say.
--

Another meal of that same pate, as it hadn't been so popular
the other time, along with lomo ahumado from who who knows
where (I can guess - there's a guy who drives his refrigerator
truck up every week from northern Spain, moderately smoked pork
tenderloin that had been rubbed with smoked paprika and pepper,
rather nice; and a wonderful jambon de Bayonne, like prosciutto
mated with Smithfield country ham but more elegant than either.
Ian didn't fuss around with the wine this time, and so the
offering was what we'd been drinking as a summer cooler, the
Coteaux de Glanes rose 18, a just off-dry pinky with light
berry and floral scents and a touch of citrus - a great quaffer
at something like $3 to 4 a bottle. Oh, to patch up the terrine
Jacquie put out some of their homemade chutnies, all good, none
to my taste going with the wine, so I mostly passed.
==

Low-temperature cooking was the theme for the week, with Ian
both showing off and experimenting with various contraptions
and techniques.

Today we had sous-vide pork loin in grainy mustard sauce, with
boiled Charlotte potatoes and smothered leeks from the garden.
The meat was done just pink in the middle, perfect for sensible
diners, a little overdone for me, a bit squicking for those who
are slaves to the USDA guidelines. The texture was velvety nice,
the flavor pure and delicious - it helps to have access to a
real pork butcher. There is something special too about veggies
picked from the ground the same day and simply cooked.

This meal was paired with one of the more eminent Mosel
Rieslings, Heymann-Loewenstein 08, a highly aromatic fruity
wine, not flinty dry but dry enough, long finish.

For afters, an apple tart a la Julia Child, which Ian refers to
as Bertholle and Beck's. It was good, better than I could make
from the Mastering the Art recipe, but Jacquie is a really good
pastry cook.

I called for a glass of eau de vie and was served something
in the guise of apple brandy, but I said it was mixed fruit,
probably quince, peach, and maybe pear. Ian brought out the
bottle, which was labeled Pomme. Jacquie reminded him that
they'd been given a homemade fruit schnapps made by someone
they knew who was named Pomme.

We also had at various times of this day the Altenberg de
Bergheim Gewurztraminer vieilles vignes 03 (Lorentz)(Alsace),
another slightly off-dry, very complex and tropical fruityish
wine, this of Grand Cru status and deserving of being sipped
by itself, no food need apply. Long stone-fruit and tropical
finish, a main event wine.
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Quoting Michael Loo to All <=-

There is something special too about veggies
picked from the ground the same day and simply cooked.

That's the one thing about living in rural Ontario that I miss, a
large garden.

MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.06

Title: Braised Guinea Hen with Winter Vegetables
Categories: French, Poultry, Bacon, Wine, Herbs
Yield: 6 Servings

1 Guinea hen
Several strips smoked bacon
FOR THE MARINADE:
1/2 Bottle dry white wine
8 Black peppercorns, crushed
1 Carrot, chopped
2 Ribs celery, chopped
1 Onion, chopped
Several sprigs thyme,
2 Bay leaves
3 Branches Italian parsley
FOR THE BRAISE:
The above bird
2 T Extra virgin olive oil
3 sm Onions, peeled and halved
2 bn Baby leeks, white and light
Green parts only
5 Carrots, peeled and cut in
Half horizontally
1 lg Garlic clove, sliced
3/4 c veal broth
BOUQUET GARNI:
Several branches of thyme,
3 Branches of Italian parsley
2 Bay leaves
1 Sprig of fresh sage and
Some fresh marjoram and
Savory
Sea salt
Freshly ground Pepper
FOR THE ACCOMPANIMENT:
1 bn Tender baby turnips, topped,
Peeled, halved
1 T Butter
1/2 t Sugar
1/2 t Sea salt

(Pintade braisee au legumes d'hiver)

Guinea hen can be dry and tough, but rendered meltingly tender
and deeply savory by the moist heat of braising.

Place the marinade ingredients in a large plastic covered dish or
ceramic bowl. Place a sprig of thyme and a pinch of the marinade
vegetables in the cavity of the bird, and truss it. If using the
bacon, use it to cover the breast, and tie it in place during the
trussing. It will keep the flesh of the breast moist. Place the bird
in the marinade, turning it, and refrigerate, turning occasionally
so the marinade can flavor all of the bird.

Preheat the oven to 375 F (180 C). Heat the olive oil in a large
dutch oven, preferably enameled, over medium heat. Remove the bird
from the marinade (reserving it) and brown it in the oil on all
sides. Remove to a plate. Add the carrots and halved onions, and
color the vegetables lightly over medium heat. Add the leeks, left
entire but well washed, and stir for another couple of minutes.
Strain the contents of the marinade into the pot. Bring to a boil,
then reduce the heat. Add the bird, nestling it among the
vegetables, along with bouquet garni. Spoon some of the cooking
juices over the bird to moisten it. Cover the dish and place in
the oven. Cook for one to one and a half hours, until tender but
not falling apart.

Remove the bird and carve it, placing the pieces on a platter.
Arrange the vegetables around it. Reduce the cooking juices
slightly over high heat, correct the seasoning, and pour over the
meat and vegetables. Serve with the turnips below.

For the turnips: Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add
the turnips and cook until just tender. Drain. Melt the butter in
a medium, heavy skillet, stir in the sugar, and add the turnips.
Cook over medium heat, tossing frequently, until lightly golden on
all sides. Sprinkle with a few grains of sea salt and serve.

From: Www.Frenchgardening.Com/Cuisine

MMMMM

Cheers

Jim


... Cooking is also about gardens, it doesn't all happen in restaurants.

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